Tag Archives: Souvenir

Art Walk Porty


awp 2019

‘Souvenir’ began as a growing community-making project involving the postcard form, papermaking, and memories of visiting and living in Portobello. Starting points came from the research into the Portobello Paper Mill which once operated from Bridge Street and the tradition of ‘sending home a postcard’ when on your holidays. Within the 2018 theme of ‘Pleasure Ground’, the project sought to explore individual responses to begin to build a collective memory of the heritage of this seaside town. This was achieved via a series of drop-in workshops at Bellfield and on the Prom over the weekends of last year’s Art Walk. This is an evolving body of work and the results, thus far, will be exhibited as part of this year’s Art in Shops programme at the Cancer Research Shop, 208 Portobello High Street (Venue 32).

It always comes back to the inky joy of the word-work and making. The Book Arts permit explorations beyond and between the words and becomes a place to start, continue and re-visit conversations that got lost along the way.

Bookwork and prints on show will include pieces from ‘Souvenir: Wish You Were Here?’ made in response to last year’s Art Walk Porty.


During the Art Walk this year, I will be printing postcards with the public from my own c{art}. We will be responding to the theme of ‘Land Mark’ and Portobello’s industry history, particularly related to the Paper Mill which once operated in Bridge Street, as well as the tradition of  ‘sending home a postcard’ when on your holidays.





Souvenir: Postcards


1.  a thing that is kept that recalls a certain place, occasion, or person; memento; token; keepsake; trophy; a relic

remembrance, nostalgia

C18: from French, from (se) souvenir to remember, from Latin subvenīre to come to mind, from sub- up to + venīre to come

‘Without the owner’s input, the symbolic meaning is invisible and cannot be articulated.’

Souvenirs as objects include mass-produced T-shirts, collectables, fridge magnets, mugs, bowls, ashtrays, fudge and of course, my favourite, the one you share with others, the postcard.

Riso trial pc front

Riso trail pc back

Sent from Portobello August 1907


The first postcard was sent in the 1840s to the writer Theodore Hook in Fulham, London. It was a satirical poke at the Post office and it has been suggested that he sent it to himself. 

Postcards evolved from an existing tradition of envelopes with pictures printed upon them. Innovations in the fledgling postal system (such as the uniform penny postage stamps and the idea to charge by weight, not distance) quickly became popular allowing the sender to post these ‘postcard letters’ for a very small fee.

Austria became the first country to publish a postcard and the idea quickly spread across Europe. Images (before photography) came via the lithographic print and as the technology for mass printing of artwork advanced publishers experimented with special edition postcard sets.

The Post Office started selling postcards (without images but with stamp printed and included in the price) in 1870. Picture postcards featuring the holiday destination became increasingly popular across Europe. This led to the Royal Mail giving permission for publishers to produce and distribute postcards that could be sent through the post in 1894.

Picture postcards became very popular with the tourist market. Views of the sites were a great way of sharing your destination with those back home with a ‘wish you were here’. J. Valentine & Co. of Dundee became internationally famous as producers of Picture Postcards. James Valentine started his business in 1851 and by 1860 was selling topographical views. They gained huge success when they aimed their views to the middle and upper-class tourist markets.

‘The workforce grew from 14 in 1851 to one hundred by 1886 but this expanded tenfold consequent on William’s decision in 1898 to enter the picture postcard market. The effect on the business was to increase the few hundred new negatives added to stock annually to many thousand new views being recorded.’*

Aspects that could be associated with the leisure market were popular along with ‘stately homes, historic ruins, great open spaces, beaches, the grandeur and curiosity of nature and great engineering feats.’* Valentine’s often sourced their images from local photographers.


Bathing Pool and Amusement Park, Portobello (with Paper Mill). Postcard by Valentine’s of Dundee


Divided Back Postcard. Image courtesy of Portobello Heritage Trust

The early postcards saw people add their message to the front but from 1902 the Post Office allowed the introduction of the ‘divided back’. On the left the message could be written and the right for the address. This left the front free for the picture only.

Postcards were an ideal way of sending short messages. They became incredibly popular as they were cheap, reliable and with multi-deliveries throughout the day, a very quick and effective way of communicating.

With the advent of social media their popularity was declining but as with vinyl, they appear to be making a comeback… as with vinyl, for some they never went away…




Papermaking: doing it myself

With the absence of my own personal Fourdrinier papermaking machine and celebrating the autonomy of the ‘do it yourself’, I decided to refresh my papermaking skills. I have done this in the past for projects and workshops with a ‘recycle, reuse, re-love’ remit. There is something satisfying (and therapeutic) in shredding old work administration ‘nonsense’, soaking it in water, blending it to a pulp and then making it into some new and beautiful.

The problem I have had with it is that the fibres are cut very short so that the ‘knit’ is not very strong so it can disintegrate quite quickly. This means that it lacks a bit a structure and is not robust enough when I have printed on it or tried to make more intricate folded books forms.

dick lucas

In the new future, Dick Lucas’ cast-off t-shirt sleeves will be beaten to a pulp for me to make into paper (and I will be happy).

I was recommended to try Khadi dried paper pulp. It is made from recycled cotton rag pulp and is acid-free. It appealed to me because it is made from t-shirt cuttings and I have a fantasy that this could be where all the sleeves cut from t-shirts worn by punks end up…

It arrives as dry unprocessed pulp and you have to tear it and soak in water. It takes a while (and I did get frustrated and blitz with a blender to get rid of the final lumps second time around) for it to become the individual fibres that get added to the vat of water to make ‘paper soup’.

I made my deckle and mould from a couple of old Ikea photograph frames and also procured a slightly bigger one from a good friend (thanks Rachel!). The homemade mould was covered with a discarded fishing net I found abandoned on the seashore in Portobello. I stapled this onto one of the frames.


I am interested in watermarks and it seemed apposite to consider them in my thinking as Portobello’s success comes from the water that is the sea and the Figgate Burn.  Originally they were used as quality marks or security devices. I like the fact that these could be the ‘hidden’ treasure in a bigger piece of work. It could be a subliminal way to subvert, add layers of extra meaning. If you engage with something in a different way you find a different meaning… ‘take the gesture and hold it up to the light’.



Foolscap Watermark: I heard a story (one that I hope is true) that a certain papermaker was fed up with the legal profession (for which he made most of his paper) being such erratic payers. To subliminally ‘snub’ them and provide some quiet subversion he introduced a ‘fools cap’ as a watermark on the size of paper they so regularly demanded (and forgot to pay for). Image: alembicrarebooks.com


To emulate a watermark I tried sewing into the mesh. This would have worked better, I think… if I was better at sewing… (sorry Great Grandmother… those genes have skipped this generation). It worked in principle though and other experiments have given me ideas for future exploration. I wonder now if there is scope to produce a form of ‘dandy roll’ that will emboss the paper rather than include it on the mould… further thinking/experimenting to be made… watch this space…

This summer has provided perfect papermaking weather. Utilising the garden and the washing line, production began. The pulp behaved really well, and even the thinner ones  (as the pulp was running out) remained strong when dry. The first batch was quite rough but had a good homemade texture.

It folded well, was good for sewing and was robust enough to go through the proofing press to print wooden and metal type. The typewritten text (possibly due to scale and pressure) was not as successful.

I addressed this with the second batch by blitzing the initial pulp very quickly to remove stubborn large lumps of pulp then  ‘super-calendared’ (by ironing) the paper after making and whilst still slightly damp. This produced much smoother results!



Paper made with inclusions… in, on and under

As well as watermarks I experimented with inclusions. Either sandwiched between two thin sheets, added below (to read through) or on top of the wet paper before pressing and drying. Ideas are forming…




Handmade paper, inclusions, letterpress and typewritten text… a work in progress


The advantage of this pulp is that it was robust enough to dry, print on and then build and fuse with new sheets of wet paper… it can be added to, overlaid, built… in a brick-like structure. That has great potential and this is a good starting point for the future work I am planning.






Souvenir: Come and have a go!

Portobello-Postcard-01Portobello Postcard-02

Pleasure Ground

Sea bathing had begun c. 1790 and coincided with the building of the Georgina Villas on Bath Street. From 1801, the idea of Portobello as a bathing place started to grow. In 1806 a suite of hot and cold salt-water baths was installed at the foot of Regent Street and Bath Street, overlooking the sea.


Portobello Beach Huts

‘Portobello was to Edinburgh what Brighton & Hove were to London, without the Prince Regent and his Pavilion’

In the Victorian era, the population of Portobello doubled. There was a general move in the early 19th century from rural to more the more urban areas. Millions of migrants across the UK moved to towards the towns and cities as industry and commerce developed and transport improved. The industries were originally founded on available natural resources. For Portobello it was the clay which was used for making bricks, tiles and earthenware and the sand, for making glass. Though the industry had attracted a migrant population by 1891 Portobello was already becoming less of a ‘place to work’. It became a place to retire to, a health spa and a bracing seaside resort. The ‘Brighton of Scotland’ became a haven for widows, annuitants and people ‘living on private means’. Increasingly the middle classes built their summer residencies in Portobello.

Portobello’s hey-day was from before WW1 until WW2. There were day-trippers and holiday-makers (the latter predominately from Glasgow). The ‘Glasgow Four Week’ (last two weeks July + first two of August was the highlight of the season when there was an invasion of ‘cloth caps, pipes and net bags’. Before WW1 Portobello boasted the Promenade Pier (from which excursions by steamer could be taken) and the Edinburgh Marine Gardens and Zoological Park (which opened in 1909 and saw 750,000 visitors in the first year). Captain Spence made daily ascents in his hot air balloon, parachuted into the sea and was rescued, W. H. Ewen (the only Scotsman at the time to hold a pilot’s licence) offered flying displays and ‘Daredevil Cormack’ dived from a 70ft tower into a small water tank. The coming of the railway and the increase in leisure time for the working classes added up to Portobello becoming the pre-eminent holiday destination in Scotland.

Every second shop could hardly be seen because of their being heavily decorated with outside wares. They sold every kind of knick-knack, cans of hot water for picnickers and the Italian community brought ice cream and fish and chips.


Portobello Pier, 1904 from ‘Portobello in Old Picture Postcards’ (1985)

Portobello Pier was opened in 1871. It was 381m long promenade pier complete with pavilion and bandstand. It was the only one of its kind in Scotland.





Penicuik: The Papermaking Town Original welcome road sign

As part of my research for my Porty Art Walk project, I have been investigating the process of paper-making. I had a wonderfully friendly and informative visit to the Penicuik Papermaking Heritage Museum. Thank you to the Edinburgh Soroptimists for kindly allowing me to gatecrash your tour! Here I learnt a lot from the very knowledgeable Roger Hipkin about Southern Scotland’s papermaking history and much about the actual process itself. 

The Paper Mill in Portobello was mechanised. It used a Fourdrinier Paper Machine (invented 1803) but papermaking has been around for centuries before and was a handmade process.

Paper (derived from the Greek ‘pápyros’) production began in China over 2000 years ago. This paper was mainly made of hemp. Paper made from linen or cotton dates from around 751. It was a popular source material as it did not deteriorate over time and with age. This paper was made from rags. This was preferable because they contained only the parts from the plant required for papermaking. 

These could be collected by the ‘rag and bone man’, brought the mill where they would be sorted and boil washed. The boiling cleaned and stripped the rags of colour and was greatly improved by the invention of ‘Donkin’s Rag Boiler’ over 200 years ago. Bryan Donkin, an engineer, was also involved in developing the Fourdrinier machine to make it more effective and involved in the development of the first rotary printing press.

Then the rags were beaten to separate and break them down into the individual fibres. This was achieved by using the water power and originally produced around 7.5kg of pulp every three days. The introduction of ‘Hollander’ or ‘Dutch Beater’ c. 1670 greatly assisted paper production, increasing the output to c.300kg per day. It also had the added benefit of increasing the type of raw materials that could be processed into papermaking fibres. This is included old ropes and fishing nets.

Demand for paper for printing saw the availability of locally sourced rags outstripping supply and so imports from overseas became essential. The Napoleonic Wars in the early 1880s caused a crisis in the paper production when these rags imports were stopped. To ensure this problem did not re-occur alternative (and cheaper) raw materials needed to be found to meet the increasing demand in more disposable and ephemeral forms of printed matter. The Times newspaper (seemingly always at the forefront of print research and development… their introduction of the first steam-powered rotary newspaper press led to adverts calling for others ‘to keep up with ‘The Times’) offered a reward in 1854 to the person who could come up with a viable alternative to cotton and linen.



Paper mills in Europe and North America preferred the solution involving the use of wood pulp (sorry trees!). The possibility of turning trees into sheets of paper was inspired by the wasp and the way it makes its nest. The process of replacing the need for animal digestion was developed in Germany in the mid-1800s. Wood mills set up next to forests and processed the trees into pulp, which was dried and then transported to the paper mills. There has been a long history of using various bark, straw and bamboo that have transited through the digestive tracks of animals. Elephant poo paper is still great to print on today!

Britain’s Paper mills uniquely favoured the use of esparto grass. This made sense as it was widely abundant in Northern Africa and indeed was a perfect solution for the burgeoning Edinburgh and environs print and related trades. Edinburgh and the Lothians were rich in the resource of coal. This was shipped in bulk to Africa and the return journey was made more cost effective for the shipping companies (and therefore more affordable for the Paper Mills) by taking on the grass as deck cargo. The journey on deck allowed the dampened grass to rot en route. This was essential in starting the process of breaking down the cellulose and separating out the fibres. 

This would speed up this process that was further continued at the paper mill. Here, as noted in An Account of Two Visits to the Valleyfield Mills of Alexander Cowand & Sons Penicuik 1872 & 1881, (Ed. Roger Hipkin for the Penicuik Heritage Development Trust, 2009) the grass was ‘boiled with caustic soda and other stronger alkalis to digest resins and other unwanted organic materials’. The downside was that the ‘waste material produced was foul-smelling, highly toxic and in concentration back and tarry’. This waste was often discharged via the local water source. If the Paper Mill at Portobello engaged in this polluting practice that would mean the waste going straight from the Figgate Burn into the sea of the increasingly popular bathing beach.


Profitable paper production was determined by two factors… the access to materials and to power and energy. For the Portobello Paper Mill, the availability of water for washing, beating and steam power came from the Figgate Burn. The easy access to esparto grass came because Granton (less than 6 miles away) was the major port for its delivery in Scotland. This could then be easily transported to Portobello by the horse railway and later by its steam replacement. Portobello and the production of paper made good sense.

Industrial Portobello

Porty for Pottery, Paper and Pleasure?

As part of my research for my Porty Art Walk project, I have been investigating the town’s industrial heritage. I was struck by the postcard images of the pleasure beach full of people enjoying their holidays and the active industrial chimneys just behind the promenade.

The idea of ‘sea-bathing’ dates from somewhere in the 17th Century and was becoming increasingly popular by the late 1800s. The beneficial properties of water as therapy or curative had long been expounded. Seawater was thought to have similar medicinal benefits to that of mineral water. It was often recommended to be drunk as well as bathed in. Portobello became popular for this type of activity. This image below highlights the contradiction. Succesful but polluting industry belching their bi-products into the very same air and water being promoted (via immersion or ingestion) to benefit one’s health and convalescence…


Portobello Shoreline: where leisure and industry meet? Image: Portobello Heritage Trust

Portobello’s industrial history precedes its incarnation as a place for pleasure… ‘Edinburgh by the Sea’. The rich deposits of clay discovered next to Figgate Burn made it an ideal spot for William Jamieson to first erect his brick and tile works in 1765. This industry evolved over time to include earthenware manufacture and the start of the famous Portobello Potteries. Production required a workforce and this brought aided an increase in population. This led to Portobello’s expansion from a village to the dignity of becoming a town.

As well as the expanding pottery business Portobello also witnessed the coming (and going) of a variety of works manufacturing bottles, soap, mustard, lead products (pipes and paint) and the industry that caught my interest, paper.



Portobello Map, from the early 1900s, showing some of the industry in the town


The Paper Mill was situated in Bridge Street, next to the Figgate Burn. A potential source of power but a ready and available resource integral to the process of making paper. Originally the site (c.1783) housed a flax mill, and in the early 1800s was partly converted by James Smith (a Leith merchant) for making lead pipes and paint. Production of these products continued on the site until 1834. It then became a mustard factory until 1836 when it was converted once again, this time into a paper mill by Messrs Crighton & Co.



Money for old rope?  Old rope discarded by the shipping industry provided a cheap source of hemp fibres for making brown ‘manilla’ paper. (Thank you, Roger, at Pen-y-coe Press for that ‘wow’ moment!)

The product was a common brown paper used for packaging and wrapping. It was not successful and the Paper Mill was purchased by Thomas Craig, one of four paper-making brothers who also established mills in Dalkeith, Moffat and Caldercruix. Thomas took over the mill in 1842 and after his death by his brother Robert until c.1850 when it was taken on by younger brother David.


He made additions and improvements to the buildings, methods and the quality of paper produced. All sorts of coloured papers were produced in large quantities. The success of this enterprise led to further alterations and investment in new equipment but this did not lead to commensurate success and the Craig era ended in 1871.

The premises re-opened under the ownership of Messrs Hunter and Aikenhead in 1872 and ran successfully for the next 17 years. Production was cannily changed to meet the increasing demand for papers used for newspapers and magazines. In 1889 the mill passed to Alfred and Frank Nicol and the brothers focused high-quality paper products. William Baird (Annals of Portobello and Duddingston, 1898, p450-45) notes that paper used for the Annals was produced at Nicol’s Mill and the brothers were ‘well known in the trade for their enterprise and skill, adopting modern methods and improvements’.

paper machine

Fourdrinier Paper Making Machine. By 1820s most paper in the UK was being made on one of these.

The Mill had a single machine, it was the one purchased by David Craig and had an 81” deckle. Its size meant that almost any size of paper could be accommodated. The Nicols focussed on quality, smooth paper. It had no trace of ‘wire mark’ from the mould and did not lose bulk. This was achieved by super calendaring (the process of smoothing the surface of the paper by pressing it between hard pressure cylinders or rollers). The Mill supplied paper for book and magazine production to London, Glasgow, Birmingham, Manchester, India, Australia and the Cape. The steam-powered mill’s capacity in 1898 was 35 tons per week, with lengths of paper reaching 3.5 miles long. The steam power was coupled with the labour of some 80 employees, 30 of whom were women.

The Paper Mill was put on the market in March 1916 as a going business with a capital of £40,000.